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Plan- |
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My truck did not have any power accessories with the exception of the
back window. I have a lot of experience working with Toyotas as I
have had my 87 Supra Turbo
for so long and new that transplanting these from a donor vehicle
wouldn't be too hard. It turned out to be harder than I thought. |
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Project- |
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With the door panels off, I saw that the doors had extra bolt holes, I
assumed they were for the power regulators. However, I also noticed
that there wasn't any wires running from the body to the door.
Uh-oh, my experience says cars usually have all the plugs and wires in
place and one just has to add the modules. |
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I started by getting a Toyota Electrical Manual for my truck and using
it to get a rough idea of where all the connectors and relays would be.
I then started searching junkyards.
I found one with wrecked doors and
started taking things apart to follow the wiring around. I then
went to my truck and made comparisons. I had none of the parts
needed- no connectors, wiring, regulators, or control modules.
This meant building a completely parallel wiring harness. I took
everything I needed from the donor truck by just cutting the connectors
off with a few inches of wire hanging from the end. I ended up
with the arm rest and switch modules from all four doors, the window
switch module connector and mirror switch module connector and mirror
connector from the driver' door, the 3 male and 3 female connectors from
the driver's kick panel, the door control module and its connector from
under the driver's side of the dash, the 2 male and 2 female connectors
from the passenger's kick panel, the window switch module connector and
mirror connector from the passenger's door, the male and female
connectors from the rear driver's side kick panel and the male and
female connectors from the rear passenger's kick panel, the switch module connector from the rear driver's door, and the switch module connector from the rear passenger's door. |
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I had to drill the holes in the frames and that required that the doors be taken
completely off the truck. There are obvious flat places where the
holes should be. With doors re-hung, I installed the rubber wire
runner that spans the door jamb. |
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I've done quite a bit of electrical wiring, and soldering over my years
in the Navy and knew that I
could build the needed harness. With the Toyota wiring manual, I
listed each wire per line using columns to show starting pin, the color,
gauge, signal, and destination(s). Example: IF1-pin9 light
blue with white stripe 12gauge door lock II2-5, BO1-6,
PP1-6, BK2-7, and GM1-8. When I go to another connector where I
had already listed the wire, I just referenced back to it.
Example: II2-5 light blue with white stripe 12 gauge
door lock see IF1-9. There were a couple of mistakes in my
manual as I figured the actual wire colors I had in my hands were more
accurate than the printing in the manual. With this written map, I ran the
new wire around the truck to get a rough length, cutting each one about
where the connectors would be and being sure to cut long. A lot of
soldering, cleaning, and heat shrinking later, the wiring harness was
done. I then wrapped it all in electrical tape and ran it through
the factory looms. The mount for the door control relay was in my truck. |
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To replace the regulators,
I removed the two bolts that hold the window. I then ran 2 loops
of tape from the inside of the window over the frame to the outside of
the window to hold it up.
Swapping of the regulators was easy as the extra holes in the doors were
for the power regulators. |
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Unfortunately, the new arm rests do not cover the holes where the old
hand cranks came through. I will be building new door panels for a
stereo anyway, so this was no big deal to me. With everything in
place and hooked up it was time to try the stuff out. Yeah, it all
works. I do not have power mirrors yet, as I do not have the
mirrors themselves, but all the wiring and switches are in place. |
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Difficulty- |
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1- With practically nothing in place for power accessories, this mod
becomes very extensive and requires a good working knowledge of wiring. |
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2- All the junk yards in my area are way too proud of their stuff and
will not allow parts to be taken off of doors and such if they can sell
the door whole. I had to keep making trips back to them until I
found a 4Runner that had wrecked doors (that's why no mirrors). |
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3- The arm rests I got were tan and I had to paint them grey to match my
interior. |
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Problems- |
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1-
No real problems other than the hole for the door crank be exposed.
I could have got he door panels too, I guess if I had found one that had
the same color interior |
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Payoff- |
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This payoff was purely personal. I like having the power windows-
I couldn't roll all the windows down by hand while rolling down the road
for example. The biggest reason I did this was to allow the
install of an alarm that could lock doors when it armed. |
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All the junk |
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How the connectors were cut |
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Tools |
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New harness |
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Front regulators |
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Back regulators |
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Lock modules |
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Doors off for hole cutting |
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The hole |
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Old bolts |
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New bolts |
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Tan arm rests |
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Now grey |
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All done |
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Last updated:
Freitag Oktober 21, 2005
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Materials &
parts |
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Junk parts- $600.00 |
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50ft 12g wire- $0.00 |
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25ft 22g wire- $0.00 |
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25ft 24g wire- $0.00 |
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Heat shrink- on hand |
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Solder- on hand |
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Flux- on hand |
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Alcohol- on hand |
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Electrical tape- on hand |
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Zip ties- on hand |
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Masking tape- on hand |
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Tools |
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Ratchet and sockets |
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Phillips head screwdriver |
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Flat head screwdriver |
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Drill |
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hole bit |
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hole bit |
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Round file |
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Soldering iron |
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Heat gun |
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Stiff bristle brush |
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Wire cutters |
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Wire strippers |
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Razor knife |
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