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Loose exhaust manifold, part 1 |
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Plan- |
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November 16 1998, my first big repair on my Supra that I am doing.
Originally, this repair was to fix a loose exhaust manifold. I
also suspected another blown head gasket. I am very
disappointed to have to be doing this work as it's only been 39,000
miles since I gave the dealership more than $3000 to fix a
blown
head gasket and rebuild this thing. My thinking went like
this. In order to properly re-torque the manifold, the turbo
has to come off- since the turbo is coming off, maybe I can do a
couple of mods while I'm digging around in there- if I want to do
mods, they would be easier with the engine out- with the engine out,
I can take the time to detail the bay- ok, the engine comes out. |
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Project- |
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I started by draining the engine, coolant, and trans fluids.
Then I removed the radiator and all coolant hoses. The wiring
harness was very easy to take loose from the car- there are just
five connectors behind the glove box and the whole thing lays on top
of the engine. I hope everything else is this well thought
out. |
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I will be modifying this harness for the larger
injectors that I
have. |
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I had to crack one of the turbo elbow bolts using a hammer and cold
chisel. I pounded straight down on the bolt until I had made a
groove, and then pounded at an angle in the loosening direction until
the bolt split. With this done, I completely removed the exhaust
from the car. This still seems like the easiest thing to do just
to get it out of the way. I didn't want to break open the a/c
system and I wanted the compressor out of the way and mostly immobile so
I didn't damage any lines, so I just tied it to the side using some
string. The fuel lines I just disconnected from the engine and
used bolts to plug the holes. |
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I jacked the back of the car up and put it on jack stands as high as it
would go hoping this would make it easier for everything to clear the
front of the car. The chain I had didn't have the welded loops on
the end, so I had to notch out the engine hooks to get the link to fit
over it. Once the back end of the trans was all loose (don't
forget the shifter knob, I did), I supported it with a floor jack.
The jack wheels should allow everything to roll forward. Be sure
to duct tape a block of wood across the inside of the member that runs
across the front of the car. The engine and trans are heavy and it
doesn't take much for the bottom pulley to dent this (ask me how I
know). I left the bottom pulley on to protect the aluminum timing
cover. I raised the engine until the trans was about to hit the
hump, and then I lowered the floor jack a bit. Eventually the
front of the engine was almost clear of the front member and the trans
was hanging in space. |
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Difficulty- |
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1- I have never removed an engine from a car before, so I was very slow
and meticulous with this one. As it turned it wasn't as difficult
as I thought it would be, but still not for the faint of heart.
This is an awful lot of weight and money to have hanging on a few links
of chain no matter what the load test strength. |
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2- Getting the engine high enough to clear the front of the car was a
bit of a problem. I ended up having to tilt the engine even
further by slipping a couple of links of the chain through the hoist.
I have heard of one guy that recommends loosening the front suspension
and cross member and lifting the body of the car up. This might be
easier, but not everyone can get access to a lift. |
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Problems- |
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1- I found that the turbo inlet hose was baked solid and had a crack on
the bottom of it. |
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2- The intercooler hose clamp on the bottom of the turbo was just barely
tight. I wonder how many other problems I will find before this is
all over. |
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Intermission- |
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With the engine on the floor, the turbo, intake manifold,
alternator, head, and trans still attached, it looks pretty dirty.
Since I suspected another blown head gasket, I decided to go ahead
and remove the head. |
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Here goes nothing |
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Hood and some other items are off |
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Engine is all loose |
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On her way up |
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Engine and trans hang from a chain |
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Its ready to start coming apart |
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Last updated:
Freitag Oktober 21, 2005
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Time |
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144 hours (35 hours here) |
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Total costs |
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$1,683.50 ($5.00 here) |
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Materials &
parts |
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Zip lock bags- $2.00 |
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Piece of wood- scrap |
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Duct tape- $3.00 |
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String- on hand |
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1/4 inch bolts to plug fuel lines- on hand |
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Tools |
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Ratchet and sockets. |
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Wrenches |
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Phillips head screwdriver |
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Flat head screwdriver |
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Hammer |
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Cold chisel |
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Pliers |
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Floor jack |
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Jack stands |
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Chain |
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Chain hoist |
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