Duanesmith.net «  87T Supra «  Repairs «  Loose exhaust manifold »  Forward »  Contact me

Menu

Toyota Supra Web Ring

Previous
Next

Ring Hub | Random | Join

Toyota Mods Web Ring

Previous
Next

Ring Hub | Random | Join

Best Toyota sites on the Net

Vote for my site at TopToyotaSites

Loose exhaust manifold, part 1

 

Plan-

what I want to do

November 16 1998, my first big repair on my Supra that I am doing.  Originally, this repair was to fix a loose exhaust manifold.  I also suspected another blown head gasket.  I am very disappointed to have to be doing this work as it's only been 39,000 miles since I gave the dealership more than $3000 to fix a blown head gasket and rebuild this thing.  My thinking went like this.  In order to properly re-torque the manifold, the turbo has to come off- since the turbo is coming off, maybe I can do a couple of mods while I'm digging around in there- if I want to do mods, they would be easier with the engine out- with the engine out, I can take the time to detail the bay- ok, the engine comes out.

Top

Project-

what I did

I started by draining the engine, coolant, and trans fluids.  Then I removed the radiator and all coolant hoses.  The wiring harness was very easy to take loose from the car- there are just five connectors behind the glove box and the whole thing lays on top of the engine.  I hope everything else is this well thought out. 

I will be modifying this harness for the larger injectors that I have. 

I had to crack one of the turbo elbow bolts using a hammer and cold chisel.  I pounded straight down on the bolt until I had made a groove, and then pounded at an angle in the loosening direction until the bolt split.  With this done, I completely removed the exhaust from the car.  This still seems like the easiest thing to do just to get it out of the way.  I didn't want to break open the a/c system and I wanted the compressor out of the way and mostly immobile so I didn't damage any lines, so I just tied it to the side using some string.  The fuel lines I just disconnected from the engine and used bolts to plug the holes. 

I jacked the back of the car up and put it on jack stands as high as it would go hoping this would make it easier for everything to clear the front of the car.  The chain I had didn't have the welded loops on the end, so I had to notch out the engine hooks to get the link to fit over it.  Once the back end of the trans was all loose (don't forget the shifter knob, I did), I supported it with a floor jack.  The jack wheels should allow everything to roll forward.  Be sure to duct tape a block of wood across the inside of the member that runs across the front of the car.  The engine and trans are heavy and it doesn't take much for the bottom pulley to dent this (ask me how I know).  I left the bottom pulley on to protect the aluminum timing cover.  I raised the engine until the trans was about to hit the hump, and then I lowered the floor jack a bit.  Eventually the front of the engine was almost clear of the front member and the trans was hanging in space.

Top

Difficulty-

things that made it hard

1- I have never removed an engine from a car before, so I was very slow and meticulous with this one.  As it turned it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be, but still not for the faint of heart.  This is an awful lot of weight and money to have hanging on a few links of chain no matter what the load test strength.

2- Getting the engine high enough to clear the front of the car was a bit of a problem.  I ended up having to tilt the engine even further by slipping a couple of links of the chain through the hoist.  I have heard of one guy that recommends loosening the front suspension and cross member and lifting the body of the car up.  This might be easier, but not everyone can get access to a lift.

Top

Problems-

with the product/install or that came up later

1- I found that the turbo inlet hose was baked solid and had a crack on the bottom of it.

2- The intercooler hose clamp on the bottom of the turbo was just barely tight.  I wonder how many other problems I will find before this is all over.

Top

Intermission-

on to part 2

With the engine on the floor, the turbo, intake manifold, alternator, head, and trans still attached, it looks pretty dirty.  Since I suspected another blown head gasket, I decided to go ahead and remove the head.

Top

Here goes nothing

Hood and some other items are off

Engine is all loose

On her way up

Engine and trans hang from a chain

Its ready to start coming apart

Last updated: Freitag Oktober 21, 2005

Copyright © 1997-2005 Duane Smith

Time

144 hours (35 hours here)

Total costs

$1,683.50 ($5.00 here)

Difficulty

1234567

8

910

Problems

12

3

45678910

Payoffs

See part 7

 

 

Materials & parts

Zip lock bags- $2.00

Piece of wood- scrap

Duct tape- $3.00

String- on hand

1/4 inch bolts to plug fuel lines- on hand

Tools

Ratchet and sockets.

Wrenches

Phillips head screwdriver

Flat head screwdriver

Hammer

Cold chisel

Pliers

Floor jack

Jack stands

Chain

Chain hoist