Now that I have the head back, all my parts (old and new) are complete and it's time to start putting the engine back together. 

I started by carefully wiping out any of the excess marine grease from inside the cylinders and the water jackets.  I then turned the engine upside down on the stand and sprayed the rest of the grease off.  I figured this was the best way to ensure that no crud or metal shavings were left inside the engine prior to the head install.  I should have pulled the oil pan off before doing this though.  There was no telling what crud I just put back into the block.  On another note, I was foolish for not replacing the oil pump here as shown by my later rod knock.

I am using a complete Fel-Pro upper end gasket set.  I also upgraded to ARP head bolts.  It's a good idea to put anti-seize compound on these bolts and run them into and back out of the holes prior to any assembly- this will help ensure even and accurate torque.  The way that I put the head back on was by setting the gasket onto the block, dropping the bolts through the head, and setting it down in place using the bolts as guides.  I then torqued the head down to 75 ft/lbs in 4 passes using the factory diagram. 

With the timing belt back cover and some other parts on, this thing is starting to look like an engine again.  My pile of parts is starting to dwindle.

1- Getting the cam gears to the proper torque was a bear.  I ended up having to use a chain wrench to hold them.

None

Looking back on it, I should have had the block and head lapped for a metal head gasket.  This was my daily driver and I was tired of bumming rides, so I opted to not wait for the delivery time of getting one.  If I'm ever in here again, I will definitely do it.  It's getting there.  Time for the final assembly.