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Plan. |
More photos below. |
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The last time that I changed the oil, I noticed that the right boot
on my Supra steering rack had split. I could have just changed the boot
and hope that the seal hadn't been too badly damaged, but I opted to
replace the whole rack as I have a free replacement.
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The Project. |
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After putting the front of the car up on stands and removing the
under cover and tires, the job was really ready to start. The
first thing I did was use a magic marker to draw a line around the
rack end links where they screw into the steering knuckle links.
I then loosened the bolt that attaches the upper and lower
half of the steering arm (by the brake master cylinder). The
steering link halves were unscrewed next. I then loosened the
clamps and brackets holding the lines including the ones for the
cooler. The lines themselves came off next and then the four
bolts holding the rack in place (the front 2 are accessed though the
cross member, the back 2 are on the back top of the member). With both racks out, I cleaned up the one that I was getting ready
to put in. Unfortunately that was all I could get done that
day. The next day is snowed and was cold for the next week.
I did this as part of my brake line upgrade so I had all four tires
off the ground. I wish I had a picture of my car on stands
with all four tires off and a foot of snow on it. The only
real note about the install was that I had to set the rack up onto
my floor jack and roll it just up to the cross member. I could
then join the halves of the steering arm- any farther away and it
doesn't reach, any closer and there's not enough slack. Make
sure the rack is centered and the steering wheel is level.
Count the number of threads from the old rack out to the end of the
marker lines and adjust the new links to the same. Go right
out and get an alignment.
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Brake
lines...
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Difficulty. |
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1- Expect to
get very messy as work is done around the cross member and it is
another collection point for every drip and leak. I've taken
to wearing surgical gloves when doing messy work.
2- The passenger side links came off easily on both cars, but the
driver's side links I had to use my biggest vice grip and a propane
torch to get them to come loose. What a pain.
3- The back two rack bolts are very hard to get to and one of the
line attachment points is blocked somewhat by the other.
4- I also had to loosen the bolt holding the metal intercooler pipe
elbow to the car to give myself the extra little room to get the
rack to come out.
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The Problems. |
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I've had no problems with this repair. Even considering that I
put a non turbo rack into my turbo car.
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The
Payoff. |
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Again, the payoff is a no-brainer. I don't have to keep
refilling the reservoir.
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Back to top... |
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Time |
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5 hours |
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Total Cost |
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$54.00 |
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Difficulty, 1 to 10 |
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1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 |
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Problems, 1 - 10 |
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1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 |
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Payoff, 1 - 10 |
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1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 |
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Materials/Parts |
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Steering rack (used)- $0.00 |
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Quart of auto trans fluid (x2)- $6.00 |
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Spray can of carb cleaner- $3.00 |
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Bottle of propane- on hand |
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Alignment- $45.00 |
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Tools |
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Ratchet and sockets. |
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Wrenches |
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Large vice grips |
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Propane torch nozzle and striker |
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Floor jack |
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Jack stands |
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Scrub brush |
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Marker |
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